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Craft Century City – Handsome Eats

Serene... until the agents arrive

Serene... until the agents arrive

Recently Dirty Handsome had the pleasure of dining at the Tom Colicchio restaurant Craft in Century City. The steak restaurant is infamous in Los Angeles for being run by a recent Top Chef contestant, being a great New York transplant, having wonderful food, and enduring a mild douchebag crowd courtesy of the CAA talent agency, whose Death Star headquarters looms over Craft’s beautiful, warm, spacious-but-not-overwhelimg space. We were excited that our recently-former boss’ wife swung us a reservation and were even more excited when we figured that someone else would probably be picking up a tab. We live Handsomely, but we’re hardly Old Man Moneybags.

Half our reservation was late, so we started lunch with an Elderberry Collins, one of Craft’s specialty cocktails. It was a spruced up version of a traditional Tom Collins, but with elderberry liquer and a splash of lemongrass soda. It was top notch, and it meant having booze in the afternoon. These are good things.

We started lunch off with an appetizer selection of raw oysters and a delicious fennel salad. The restaurant was an excellent example of how access to the best fresh ingredients can overshadow cooking prowess, technique, and inventive dishes. The salad was a traditional combination of sliced raw fennel and citrus, the oysters were entirely raw with no garnish. Lunch continued with a little more flair and style. I had a flatiron steak (the Niman Ranch steak was on the menu but woefully unavailable) that was so soft and succulent only a fork was necessary to eat it. Complimenting our lunch was a small side of balsalmic glazed heirloom carrots in a few variations of purple and orange. I had no idea heirloom carrots existed, but after eating them I recommend you grow your own and eat the hell out of them. Smugly.

I had a great glass of red wine that was near Cab Sav in intensity but was a varietal I’d never heard of. Foolishly, I forgot to write it down and didn’t take a picture. I blame the Elderberry Collins on an empty stomach. Service was excellent.

Verditct: highly recommended – an excellent meal

Tip: go only when someone (or some company) is paying for it

The beautiful glass behind the bar at Craft Flatiron steak at Craft Century City

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